Archives

Save-A-Pet Article Archives
We've changed this page to make it easier for you to find the archived article you want.
The articles are grouped by topic:

Ticks can be dangerous for your pet. They attach themselves to an animal (or person) to feed, and as they do, transmit whatever disease they are carrying.

· Prevention is always the best approach. Ticks thrive in areas of thick vegetation, waiting to attach themselves to a target as it walks by. Keep your grass mowed and vegetation neatly cut back. When you walk your dog, keep him out of the underbrush. If you walk in the woods, check for ticks immediately afterward.

· Have a discussion with your Vet. Your Vet can offer advice on effective tick control agents that are available. If Lyme disease is a problem in your area, your Vet may advise vaccinating your dog.

· Check your pet regularly for ticks. Make it a practice to check your pet for ticks as you do your regular grooming. If you find one, don't panic - remove it immediately.

How to Remove a Tick · Don't touch the tick with your fingers. · Using a pair of tweezers, grasp the body of the tick and then pull slowly. · Once the tick is out, check to make sure that the head of the tick has been removed. If it looks like there are "black lines" in your pet's skin, the head is probably still there. If your pet is cooperative, you can try to tweeze it out. If not, you will need to have your veterinarian remove it. You should make sure the head is removed because if left in, it can lead to an infection or abscess. · Once you have removed the tick, drop it in alcohol to kill it or place it in a sealed container and dispose of it in the trash. · If you are unsure about how to remove a tick properly, contact your veterinarian.

Though dogs are the almost-perfect companion, one of their few faults is that their lifespan is just too short. The average age for a medium size dog is about 12-13 years. Giant-breed dogs tend to have shorter lifespans, with Great Danes and Irish Wolfhounds having a life expectancy of only about 8 years old. Small-breed dogs, though, often reach 15 years or more.

Advancing age creeps up on all of us - it just seems to come faster to our canine companion. There are some things we can do to make life easier for our older dogs.

First of all PAY ATTENTION to your dog. As with humans, "old" dogs aren't identified by the number of birthdays. It's more about how well their bodies hold up. Old dogs move slower and stiffer than middle aged dogs. Aged eyes often take on a milky, opaque glaze, which sometimes is related to diminished vision. Lots of odd bumps and nodules may pop up all over the dog 's body. In some breeds, muzzles turn endearingly gray. Old dogs sleep more and snore louder. Old dogs tend to be "set in their ways," and they may become grouchy or stressed if their usual routines are changed. Old dogs are a lot like old people.

Teach your children - and neighbors' children who visit often - to treat your old dog with slow and careful respect. Remind them that "Grandpa Dog" may not see or hear them very well, and he may startle easily, especially if they fall on top of him while he's sound asleep. Warn children that even a gentle dog might lash out and bite if he doesn't know what's happening around him.

You can help your oldster out by modifying his daily routines. Do continue daily walks or some exercise, but let the dog set the pace and length of the walk. The older dog will be more sensitive to cold and extra-hot temperatures, so consider a dog-sweater for winter and shady walking spots for summer. If your dog can no longer jump into the back of your van, you can buy a doggie-ramp so that he can walk up. Going on outings is good therapy for dogs as well as people.

Many old dogs suffer from arthritis. Ask your veterinarian about the multitude of products now available to help ease the pain of stiffened joints. Glucosamine and Chondroitin are diet supplements that are often used to treat people and pets. Medications such as Rimidyl can be very effective under a veterinarian's supervision.

Diet for older dogs is a topic that dog food companies claim needs special attention. Whether or not your senior dog needs a dog food formulated for seniors may depend on whether your dog has any health issues that call for a special diet. Common sense says that if you've fed your dog a good quality food all his life and he's doing well, there's no need to change it as he ages.

Do take good care of your dog's teeth as she ages. Regular brushing with a special toothpaste formulated for dogs (ask for "Pet O Dent" at the dog supply store) will save you a lot of trouble later. If neglected teeth and bad gums need treatment in your vet's office, such dental work will be done under anesthetic, which always presents an increased risk for older dogs.

Whatever you feed your dog, watch out for changes in her appetite or drinking habits. Excessive water intake, refusing to eat, or not being able to keep food down are all symptoms of problems that need immediate veterinary attention.

Do continue regular check-ups with your dog's favorite veterinarian. Many conditions associated with aging, such as cataracts or congestive heart problems, can be treated if they're caught early enough. You might also want to discuss your dog's vaccination schedule with your vet. For many years, it was thought that annual boosters for diseases such as distemper and parvo were necessary for all dogs throughout their lifetime. In recent years, new thinking on immunology suggests that a dog that has been vaccinated regularly in his early years might not need annual boosters. Rabies shots every three years are still required by law, but other immunizations may be more flexible.

The consolation of living with an old dog is that old dogs don't feel sorry for themselves. They don't waste time mourning their lost youth or regretting things in the past. Old dogs don't worry about the future. That's the great nobility of the old dog, content to live each day as it comes, just happy to be with you.

Finding out that your pet has cancer can be devastating news . . . But it need not be a hopeless situation. In fact, cancer in pets is very often a treatable disease, and in many cases curable.

As breakthroughs in human medicine prolong and save the lives of an increasing number of people, veterinary medicine is following in its footsteps. The standard treatments used in people are also being used in animals - surgery, radiation therapy, and chemotherapy. The appropriate treatment depends on the type, aggressiveness, and location of the cancer. And don't be discouraged if you pet is older, because older animals often do just as well, or even better, than younger ones.

The goals in treatment of pets with cancer are the same as for people - to provide long life with good quality, to cure the cancer if possible, and to relieve pain and discomfort in the animal. Your veterinarian can help you make decisions about treatment options, and may refer you to a cancer specialist.

An annual checkup with your veterinarian will help discover problem signs early. However, if you notice any of these red flags, call your vet right away:

Spaying or neutering your dog or cat is beneficial to both you and your pet. It is recommended that the surgery be performed before six months of age or the first heat cycle. Here are some reasons why:

* Your pet's life expectancy is increased and their disposition generally becomes more gentle and affectionate.

* Spaying a female helps prevent uterine infections, such as pyometra, and mammary cancer.

* Neutering a male helps reduce the risk of cancer, prostate disease and hernias.

Reducing the pet overpopulation is beneficial for every community, as hundreds of thousands of cats and dogs are euthanized or suffer as strays every year. Further, anytime a municipality seizes a stray dog or cat, there are expenses involved for sheltering and care, or for euthanizing.

A half-teaspoon of canned pumpkin mixed in with your cat's food once a day can keep hair balls away. The fibre helps cats pass the hair through their system rather than coughing it up on your carpet. And they like the pumpkin taste.

When we hear pets and allergies, we often think of the pet dander that causes allergies in humans. But sometimes pets have allergies, too. And just like humans, those allergies can flare up in the spring.

Signs your furry companion may be suffering from allergies include watery eyes, sneezing, itching, flaky skin and chronic ear infection. Many pet owners suspect their pet's food. But while some pets are allergic to certain foods, only ten percent of dogs and cats have food allergies. Pets can also be allergic to:

* Contact allergens. Some pets are sensitive to soaps, insecticides, wool nylon carpets, grass and even plastic feeding dishes.

Some allergies can be hard to diagnose, so if you think your pet may have an allergy, you should consult your veterinarian. You may also try a food that contains vitamin-rich fish oils, which can help skin rejuvenate and keeps coats shiny.

Good parents want their kids to grow up healthy. Now parents can end kids' itches and "achoos" before they start. A recent study by Henry Ford Health System researchers found children exposed to cats and dogs during their first year of life appear less likely to develop allergies later in life. In addition, research published by Clinical and Experimental Allergy found children who were exposed to pets during their first year were less likely to develop asthma at 12-13 years.

Wait . . . you heard pets cause allergies? That's not always true! The majority of pet allergies among humans result from pet dander, or dead skin cells, not the animal's hair itself. So it you keep dander under control, you will breathe easier in no time. Simply cleaning and vacuuming your house regularly and bathing your pet weekly will keep pet dander under control.

To further reduce pet dander, try feeding your pets a premium food containing vitamin-rich fish oils. It will provide pets with the essential nutrients needed for a healthy skin and coat, therefore less dander and dead skin cells.

"You can't put a sign outside our house that says Judy's Cat House!" I insisted indignantly. My husband David just stood there calmly with a silly grin on his face. "The proper term is Cattery!" I vented. He still just stood there calmly. Feeling a slight giggle rising I added, "I guess we do take in some expectant mothers that have been known to cat around with any tom in the area." We decided not to encourage drop-offs and didn't put up a sign at all.

My first cat rescue was a very skinny, very pregnant, very friendly black female that had taken up residence in the engine compartment of our son's minibus. We brought Shadow inside, prepared a nursery (upstairs bathroom) and she delivered two days later. Save-A-Pet was full. The SPCA wasn't taking cats. I followed Save-A-Pet's vet care protocol and took the kittens and mother to Save-A-Pet's Pick-A-Pet shows until they were adopted. I was an unofficial foster home. Since all of our children are on their own and we have a large house, I became an official foster home.

My first Save-A-Pet charges were "Cs" so Judy's Cat House/Cattery began in year C. We started keeping track of how long our kitties have been with us by assigning them a number and a letter. For example, the first kitty accepted into the Save-A-Pet program in 1995 would be 1A, the first in 1996 would be 1B and so on. I is the letter for 2003 so I have been with Save-A-Pet for 7 years.

We have two upstairs bathrooms that are thick glass tile on top of reinforced concrete. David says these bathrooms are built like bomb shelters. Our house will fall down around them. The floor and walls are tiled to within a foot of the ceiling, making them ideal quarantine rooms.

I can swab them down from stem to stern with bleach solution between occupants. The green bath is The Nursery which houses expectant moms or moms with new litters. The lavender bath is Kitty Kindergarten housing weaned male kittens and male teenagers. A lot of socialization and playtime goes on here. This is also where the kittens discovered they could hide inside the pedestal of our old-fashioned pedestal sink!

3 out of 5 bedrooms have become cat rooms. Cat rooms have food and water dispensers, numerous litter boxes, cat trees, kitty condos, a TV or radio, various boxes to hid or play in, cat toys and at least one comfortable piece of furniture. I talk while cleaning or read out loud so the cats will know my voice. We have to be careful to separate unspayed females and intact males. We certainly do not want to add to the cat over population problem!

The yellow bedroom is our Sunshine Room that houses shy cats and my ten-year-old brothers Rusti and Nicki (affectionately known as "the pisster twins"). I can't bring myself to put R & N down for bad habits so they help teach the shy cats to trust and do limited damage in the Sunshine Room. A medium hair gray cat named Herbie lived here until adopted by someone who wanted a cat that really needed a home. It took his new owners two months to clear up his eyes and he has become a wonderful companion. The back bedroom is the Nine Lives Club where I keep the older cats that do not care for the antics of kittens and a couple of "untouchables" that I adopted when they had been with us for a very long time such as Clara, a.k.a. Miss Hissyspit. A beautiful calico, Clara delivered her kittens in The Nursery. Her kittens have all been adopted. This is a very peaceful room with three windows overlooking the back yard. This is where I like to listen to classical music and cross-stitch (and of course, love the cats).

The Loverly Room is another room at the back of the house with three windows. The name comes from the song in "My Fair Lady" ... all I want is a room somewhere ... with one enormous chair ... oh wouldn't it be loverly. This room houses female kittens and female teenagers. This is where I meditate in the morning and write letters in the evening. It's also a 1/2 way room for moms and older mobile kittens with their eyes open. The nursery has the only tub so moving them allows us to take a bath without worry that kittens will scamper out or get in the tub.

The downstairs bath is our medical quarantine. I transport animals to the vet for foster parents that work. Recently I took Lady Grace and Betty Jean for Judy Northcliffe. Gracie pulled out the stitches from her spay incision and was then stapled. She needed antibiotics. B.J. had an eye ulcer that needed medication. It was easier to keep them in medical quarantine at my house since Judy N. works. Our downstairs bath is now The Northcliffe Medical Ward.

The rest of the house is home to cats ready to be adopted so that they will be interacting in a family situation. There are so many memories. Certain cats liked certain places. Goochie went on top of one curio cabinet, Robert on top of another. Rusti was a high wire enthusiast walking on top of doors and kitchen cupboards until he fell through the kitchen drop ceiling. Maggie likes to sleep in the unplugged heating unit for the crock-pot. Mary Agnes loves to sleep near the warm coffeepot.

There are also 3 No Cat Rooms - our bedroom (because Don Juan would nibble David's nose at 3:00AM, the computer room (too much stuff to risk spraying or cat hair in the computer) and the family room (a place to eat meals in peace).

I think a better name for a sign would be Cat Love Home. There have been a lot of cats that have come and gone through this house in 7 years. Most of them have blessed us by being able to love us back. Most of them have gone on to love and be loved in new homes of their own. A few are still learning to trust. A few have died, very often in my arms. Those I have grieved and will miss. It has been my privilege to love every cat that I have met. Cats help keep my focus off myself. They have filled my life with warmth and joy and unconditional love. So at Save-A-Pet, "Do we save cats and dogs or do they save us?"

The Shelter Dilemma by Judy Kirkpatrick, cat officer

“We are not able to accept any cat surrenders at this time since all of our foster homes are full.”

That is a portion of the Save-A-Pet message that is almost always on my voice mail. Many callers are confused when I am able to answer the call and merely say “Hello?” “Is this Save-A-Pet?” they ask, expecting an actual shelter, office and paid staff. One irate caller asked to speak to my boss when I couldn’t take in her cat! I do not have a boss. I am the boss. The buck stops here. I am accountable to my Board of Directors, but we establish foster home limits together with the best interests of the animals in mind. There is no formal shelter, office or paid staff. The shelter is my home and the homes of other dedicated foster caregivers. The office is a spare bedroom and we are all volunteers. I just haven’t quite been able to bring myself to answer “Save-A-Pet” on my own personal phone, even though 15-30 calls a day are animal rescue related.

Home Fostering: Save-A-Pet is a home fostering shelter. The animals we rescue are sheltered in homes with families. It is a wonderful concept. The animals in our care get used to people. Some get used to kids and other animals. Knowing personalities assists in good adoption placements. But home fostering means limiting animals to 8-10 maximum per household. We have foster caregivers who choose to shelter 1 or 2 cats. It is also hard for our foster caregivers to let go. It is extremely difficult not to become emotionally bonded to cats that have become members of your family. At one Pick-A-Pet show, 5 cats that I had fostered were adopted. I went home and bawled. Yes, I was happy that they had good homes. Yes, I know they need more attention than I could give them. Yes, I know that opened up space to rescue more. But those five had been my intimate companions and I was overwhelmed by how much I missed them.

Quality VS Quantity: Save-A-Pet has decided to make quality care for fewer animals a higher priority than the number of rescues. That makes sense until I have to turn away animals when we are full. Those animals are either left to fend for themselves or surrendered to a shelter that must accept surrenders and therefore must euthanize when the surrenders exceed shelter space. Even shelters that keep their animals in cages and can accommodate greater numbers reach a saturation point where there is not enough space or enough help to care for the animals. We all reach a point where we have to say, “No.” If we don’t, we end up dealing with illness being passed through our animal population and/or the burnout of our volunteers.

No Kill: Save-A-Pet is a no kill shelter. We do not euthanize healthy, adoptable animals. We have euthanized in extraordinary cases such as animals hit by cars because they were in such bad shape and in pain. We rely on our Vets to help us make that determination. The result is that we have animals that are harder to adopt - older cats, toothless cats, one-eyed cats, three-legged cats and terminally shy cats. Unfortunately, since so many people want that perfect young lap cat, some of our cats have been in foster care for a long time. Some are even adopted by their caregivers rather than move them again. When that happens it reduces the number of cats that can be fostered in that home. Case in point: I have two 10-year-old brothers, Rusti & Nikki. In this multicat household, they are know as “The Pisster Twins” because they will not stop marking their territory. So they now live with other seniors in a huge spare bedroom known as “The Nine Lives Club.”

Quarantine Capability: Cats are quarantined when first accepted into the Save-A-Pet program. They are tested for FeLV (feline leukemia) and FIV (feline aids), treated for illness or injury, treated for fleas, ear mites, worms and given shots. I use several spare bedrooms since most foster caregivers do not have a place to quarantine. The animals are kept temporarily in cages and cat playpens. I need to be able to scrub down surfaces with a bleach solution between animals. When ready to return to the general population, they are moved into their new foster home. (Now you know why my friend calls me The Cat Warden.)

A Bottomless Pit: We want to fix the problem of homeless pets. We want to save them all. We do what we can but it never feels like enough. For every cat accepted into the Save-A-Pet program, I am turning away 20. This sense of futility led to addressing some underlying causes of pet overpopulation through spay/neuter assistance and public education. Now I understand what one of our Vets meant when he told a Save-A-Pet rescue, “You’re a lucky kitty.” At least we have made a difference to that one.

You can’t help everybody. But everybody can help somebody. That’s something.

Return to Top

Why Does My Cat Behave Like This?

Through vocalization and body language, cats try to tell us what they want. Understanding how your cat communicates will help you better understand them.

Head bumping & tail rubbing: With scent glands on their chins, lips, tails and foreheads, cats mark the things they own (including you) with their own scent by rubbing against them.

Kneading: This comforting action reminds your cat of her days as a suckling kitten.

Growling & Hissing: This shows anger, aggression, or fear.

Purring: Purring generally signals extreme satisfaction, but sometimes indicates stress.

Catnapping: Cats sleep twice as much as other mammals - about 16 hours a day on average - but prefer to take little naps all during the day.

Spraying urine: This is another way in which a cat marks territory.

Playing: An important social behavior for kittens, playing helps your cat develop social skills to ensure she grows into a contented, relaxed cat.

... And How Can I Get My Cat to STOP Behaving Like THAT?

Some common behavior problems can be stopped with proper planning. Behavior modification in cats is possible if you use positive reinforcement and patience. Never punish a cat with yelling or hitting - this does not work with cats, and will usually make the problem much worse.

Jumping on counters and furniture: Cats enjoy resting on elevated places, especially windowsills and ledges where they can see outside. · Establish acceptable elevated spots for your cat. Give positive reinforcement for using these spots. · If your cat uses unacceptable spots, remove her from that area and place her in one of the acceptable areas.

Scratching furniture: Cats scratch with their claws as part of grooming and to mark their territory. · Train your cat right from the start to use a scratching post. Hold her near the post and show her how to scratch her paws on it. Give praise when she uses it.

Urinating outside the litter box: · Your cat will resist using a litter box if it is not kept clean, so be sure to scoop and clean it out regularly. · An unneutered male will spray to mark his territory. Neutering usually solves the problem. · Check with your Vet to see if there is a medical reason, such as a urinary tract infection.

Body Language of Cats - a quick lesson

Raised tail = confident, excited Limp tail = Relaxed Ears slightly turned forward = Friendly, playful Ears slightly laid back = Afraid or angry Pupils dilated = Anxious, afraid Averted eyes and/or lying with belly face-up = Submissive Lying low, ready to pounce = Aggressive Hair raised = Trying to look intimidating

The "Rattle Can" Distraction

Rather than punishing undesirable behavior, distract your cat and interrupt the behavior with a rattle can. Fill an empty soda can with 10 pennies, and tape it completely to seal it shut and cover any sharp edges. When you see your cat engage in an inappropriate behavior, shake or toss the can near - not at - her. The noise will startle and distract her from the unwanted behavior. Follow up by giving her one of her favorite toys. With consistent repetition, she'll learn that certain behaviors produce loud, disturbing noises.

Getting a Dog?? Buyer Beware By Chris Halvorson

In recent years, Save-A-Pet's volunteers have noticed a big change in the surplus dog situation in this area. When SAP started more than 25 years ago, dogs were our major concern. We had a constant stream of unwanted puppies needing placement, and every one of our Pick A Pet shows featured a pen of pups.

Then a wonderful thing happened: the public education campaign for SPAY/NEUTER YOUR PET started to show its effects. We noticed a decrease in the number of puppies we were asked to place. People calling us to inquire if we had pups available often reported that all the local animal shelters they'd checked had no puppies. The balance has shifted, and now the demand for puppies exceeds the supply.

So if you want a good puppy, or perhaps a puppy companion for your current dog, how do you find one? If you've checked with SAP and the local animal shelters, and none of us has a puppy for you, we'll ask you to consider adopting an older dog. Most shelters and groups like Save-A-Pet often have older, less cutesy dogs waiting for a good home. Though these dogs may lack a puppy's charm, but they also often lack puppy problems, such as an innocent ignorance of housebreaking and no-chewing rules. Many people who think they want a puppy would actually be better off with an older dog.

If you're thinking of getting a purebred dog, we urge you to buy from a reputable breeder. You might refer to a previous article, "Buying a Purebred Pup," which you can find in the Archives section. But if you're desperately looking for a good puppy of any mix of breeds, be aware that the current shortage of puppies has led to an increase of disreputable breeders who want to sell you a dog, any dog, at the highest possible price.

Check the Classified Ads in the newspaper for dogs. Some years ago, mixed breed puppies were advertised "free to a good home." Then when the public became more aware of proper veterinary procedures, ads offered mixed breed pups for $50 or so, which supposedly covered the cost of a pup's first shots and vet check. But now, you'll find ads offering mixed breed puppies for $100-200, with owners seeking to make on profit. Some people are deliberately mixing breeds and selling them at even higher prices as novelty "breeds" such as "Labra-doodles." Dogs that some years ago were just called "mutts" are now being deliberately produced to satisfy the demand for puppies.

But if the mixed-breed pup you want to buy is adorable, and you're willing to pay the asking price, there shouldn't be any problem with that, right? We suggest you make your decision based on the person who is selling you the pup. If that seller places the welfare of his puppy above its price tag, then that seller will be questioning you carefully before reaching for your money. The seller should be concerned about what kind of home you can offer the pup: do you have other pets or young children; experience with training; a fenced yard, rent or own your home? All those questions are a good sign. Chances are that a puppy that is carefully sold has been well cared for from the earliest days of its life.

If the puppy seller doesn't interview you carefully, that's a tip he just wants your money and doesn't care what you do to his puppy (that unknown future is why reputable breeders never sell puppies to pet shops for resale). Even worse is the seller who won't let you see the littermates or mother of the pups . You should be wondering what kind of temperament and physical problems may be kept hidden. The seller may tell you that the puppy has had its shots and a vet check. What he doesn't tell you is that the parents of the pup probably haven't been screened for inheritable problems -- such as hip dysplasia, seizures, deafness, eye defects or heart problems -- which would be standard practice for a carefully-bred dog. If you fall in love with the pup and buy it even though you may not trust the breeder, you take your chances. If the puppy has health or behavior problems, don't be surprised if the breeder doesn't return your phone calls.

Most people would avoid buying a dog from a "puppy mill." Thanks to a lot of media attention, we know that puppy mills are large, for-profit breeding operations that maximize their profits by giving minimal care and concern to multiple breeding animals. Images of matted dogs living in filth-filled chicken-wire cages have helped show us just how bad these places can be. Most large commercial pet stores get the puppies they sell from puppy mills, often having truckloads of pups shipped in from the prairie states.

So it might surprise you that even eastern Niagara County has puppy mills. If you're tempted to buy a pup from a seller who is as careless as those described above; and if that seller has litters of various breeds available, watch out. And if the seller seems to have a lot of dogs hidden away on the "back forty," you might buy a puppy out of pity and end up with heartache.

If all this is discouraging, and you decide to look harder to adopt a homeless dog rather than buying a puppy, you still need to be careful that you adopt from a reputable organization. Recently Save-A-Pet has received several complaints about a local woman who claims she is an dog lover who rescues dogs from a local shelter and then adopts the dogs out. Her adoption fee is $200, and dogs are not spayed or neutered before adoption. This individual is NOT associated with Save-A-Pet. Though such individuals may mean well, we urge you to adopt from a legally incorporated rescue group or shelter. Our volunteers have worked long and hard to establish a good reputation and procedures which safeguard the adopter as well as the dog that's adopted.

If you want to buy a good dog, it may mean that you have to search a while and be patient to find the dog for you. It might mean that you broaden your search to include dogs that are older and bigger than you're original expectations. The world is full of good dogs - sometimes you just have to let the right dog find you.

Return to Top

Pet Safety Tips For Kids - By Chris Halvorson

We all assume that kids and pets go together naturally, especially if we live in a family where this has always been the case. But the truth is, not all dogs and cats are accustomed to children. Kids can seem frightening, threatening, or just plain "strange" to some pets. Little kids move fast, and they have high, shrill voices that can trigger prey or flight instincts in animals. So its up to parents to teach their children how to properly make the acquaintance of new animals, as well as how to respect the family pets.

"May I pet your dog?"

Teaching a child to ask the permission of a dog's owner before rushing in to meet a new dog is more than good manners ---- it's a basic safety rule. Have your child practice the phrase, "May I pet your dog, please?" to use upon meeting someone walking a dog. Remember, some dogs are wary of strangers, and will not welcome up-close-and-personal greetings. Any time you meet a new dog that's with his owner, ALWAYS give that owner the chance to give the okay on greetings.

If the dog's owner assures you that the dog is friendly, be sure to teach your children the proper way to approach a new dogs. That means the child is to walk (NOT run) up to the dog. Then the child should hold out a hand for the dog to sniff. When the dog wags tail and gives friendly body language, then the child can pet the dog. Even so, teach a child never to put his face right up to a dog's face, and never to try to hug a new dog, no matter how cute and fluffy it looks. Just like humans, dogs have their "space" that has to be respected while you're in the getting acquainted stage.

"Stand like a tree."

That's what the American Humane Society wants parents to teach their children to do if approached by a dog that's running around with no owner in control. The child should stand as tall and still as a tree, with arms hanging straight down along the sides of the body. The child should not shout at, talk to, or even look at the dog. The idea is that by being unthreatening and uninteresting to the dog, the child becomes part of the landscape. Most dogs will just sniff and move along.

Children have to understand that running away, screaming, or striking out at the dog are the WORST things to do when approached by a scary dog. . Dogs run faster than people, and fleeing kicks in the dog's prey drive -that is, the instinct to chase. Screaming or shouting at the dog has the same effect, and striking out at a possibly aggressive dog just incites it to attack. So, "Stand like a tree" may well be the best advice you can give your child for avoiding attacks by strange dogs.

"I want to be alone now!"

Even family pets that get along fine with children often need some time and space alone from the noise and activity of kids (parents can understand this, right?). Parents should teach their children that when the family cat or dog runs away and hides under the bed or in a crate, that pet is saying, "I want to be alone now." Many cases of dog bites or cat scratches happen when someone forces attention on a pet that's trying to avoid it, so remind your child that no one, pet or people, likes being pestered when they're feeling tired or grouchy.

Getting along with pets is often easier than getting along with people, but in both cases, its good to learn the basics when we're still children.

Dog Training, Mom’s Way By Chris Halvorson

There’s no big secret to dog training. In fact, if you’ve managed to teach your children some reasonable manners and house rules, you can use some of the same techniques to train a dog. Why then do some folks seem to have so much trouble controlling their canines?

Save-A-Pet’s volunteers see a lot of common mistakes that owners make with their dogs. We’ll divide them into three common results: The Spoiled Brat; The Dog School Drop-Out; and The Out-of-Control Beast.

The Brat

The Spoiled Brat dog starts out as an adorable, fluffy puppy. His owners love him to bits, give him lots of cuddling and tidbits, and let him do what he wants since he’s too cute and too little to punish. He’s just a baby, after all.

In about six months, Little Cutie has turned into 50 pounds of Muscle on a Leash. He barks too much, growls if provoked, maybe even snaps; sleeps on too much of his owner’s bed; steals food from kitchen counters, and raids the garbage cans. His owner’s protests are totally ignored. The Spoiled Cutie has turned into a Spoiled Teen-Aged Brat. The owner hopes he will “out-grow” these bad habits. Truth is, he’ll only get worse unless someone asserts control.

Author Carol Lea Benjamin’s classic book on puppy training is called Mother Knows Best (available from Amazon.com). The “Mother” referred to is the puppy’s dam, and Benjamin makes a strong case that we can learn a lot by watching how a mother dog disciplines her pups through some basic rules of puppy etiquette –no babying is involved. The point is that pups start to learn from their earliest days, and owners can and should be shaping their behavior. Owners who somehow missed this often resort to the next step, Obedience School, as a cure-all. This should help, but all too often we hear complaints about:

The Obedience School Drop-Out

“My dog went to obedience school¼.and he flunked.” Owners sometimes tell us this with a laugh, and sometimes with a helpless shrug. What can you do with an untrainable dog? they seem to say.

We have a different spin on this. We’d say the OWNER is the one who failed to get the message of obedience school. A six-week course in basic obedience is kindergarten. How many parents think their child is totally educated after kindergarten? Yet dog owners often don’t get the idea that obedience classes are just the start of a life-long relationship in which the owner is the “parent” and the dog the “student.” The main lessons of dog school are to teach the owner how to teach the dog. How long it actually takes to teach the basics varies — and some dogs take lots of patient repetition. But if obedience school didn’t “take,” it’s time to look for another school or dog trainer who can help prevent the worst case scenario of:

“We have to get rid of the dog since we just can’t handle him” is one of the saddest reasons people surrender dogs to shelters. “He’s just too much for us,” or “We can’t make him stop doing [fill in bad behavior]” they say, as if it’s the dog’s fault.

What this means is that the owner isn’t using the tools needed to control the dog. For instance, people sometimes tell us they want to give up a puppy or young dog since they can’t housebreak him or he’s chewing everything he can reach in the house.

“Are you keeping him in a crate when you can’t watch him?” we always ask. The answer is usually a horrified, “No, that would be too cruel!” So then we ask, “If you have a toddler in your household, do you give him the run of the house when you can’t supervise?” It never occurs to them that a puppy is just like a human baby in that you can’t give total freedom and expect him to stay out of trouble. In dog terms, a crate is like a baby’s crib or playpen — it’s a safe place to confine a baby until he knows a bit more.

Many trainers and parents believe the best way to shape behavior is with totally positive reinforcements. In parenting, kids are given lots of praise and incentives to good behavior such as payment for good grades and doing chores. In dog training, praise and dog treats encourage desired behaviors, while inappropriate behaviors are ignored or mildly disapproved. In recent years, “clicker training” for dogs takes this into sophisticated levels of shaping behavior with a little “clicker gadget” that signals an act that will be rewarded with a food treat. This can work well for someone with good hands, timing, and understanding of the theory.

Other teachers, be they parents or dog trainers, believe there’s a place for “negative reinforcement” – meaning punishment or stronger ways to signal NO! for bad behavior. Most parents know there’s a time to take a stand and enforce rules, or else your children will ignore you. With dogs, using tools that apply pressure — such as a prong collar to stop pulling, or stronger body posture and voice for corrections — can solve major problems. If a 100-pound jockey can control a half-ton Thoroughbred by using the right equipment and techniques, there’s no reason why even a small person can’t control a strong dog.

The best training tool we have is our brains, and most of us like to think we’re smarter than our dogs. Use the advice often given to parents: Be firm. Be consistent. Be patient. And it doesn’t hurt do what Carol Lea Benjamin suggests in Mother Knows Best: Learn to think like a dog.

Let’s face it — the notion that you really should pay more attention to your pet’s grooming is easy to forget in the press of all your other daily chores. Fortunately, the pet supply industry is booming with products to make pet care easier, and even things you already have around the house can be useful. Whether you’re willing to make an investment in grooming gadgets or just use some good sense, caring for your pet on a regular basis will help avoid future problems caused by neglect.

Starting up front at your pet’s ears, take a peek inside to check that they’re pink and clean. Keep them that way by regular cleaning. One easy way is just to wipe them with a cotton swab dipped in baby oil, then dry them with a tissue. We prefer to use a commercial liquid ear cleaner such as “R-7 Ear Cleaner” or “Earoxide.” (See the end of this article for “where to buy” info on some of the products mentioned here.) These liquids can be can be squirted into the ear and then rubbed around with a cotton pad (such as a make-up remover pad). You’ll be surprised how much wax and debris comes off on the pad. Don’t use “cue-tip” cleaners that might puncture the eardrum, and rubbing alcohol or peroxide is too harsh. Hounds or spaniel-type dogs with long, hanging ears are most prone to ear infections, so checking and cleaning ears frequently should be a priority.

Both your dog and your cat should have regular dental care to prevent the build up of plague that causes gum disease and tooth infections. If you neglect this care, your veterinarian may suggest a professional cleaning, which is generally done under anesthetic. You can avoid this by regular tooth cleaning with products made just for dogs and cats. We use “Petrodex” tooth paste for dogs and cats since our pets like the taste. Instead of a toothbrush, try using a “finger toothbrush,” a little nubby plastic thing you slip over your finger and use to rub your pet’s teeth — it’s easy. Don’t use toothpaste made for people on your pet — it can cause upset stomachs.

Nail and foot care can be touchy. If you start clipping your pet’s toenails at a young age, you’re more likely to have success even when the pet gets bigger and stronger. Pet nail clippers come in either the “scissors” style or “guillotine” style, and come in sizes from small to heavy duty. Be sure to have some “Kwik Stop” powder or gel on hand. This product will instantly stop the bleeding that results if you inadvertently clip the nail so short that it bleeds. Some pets who object strenuously to nail clipping don’t seem to mind nail grinding at all. You can buy electric nail grinders such as the “Dremel” brand for about $70.

Clipping the hair inside a pet’s footpads is also a good idea. Kitty litter stuck in the hair inside a cat’s paws gets tracked through the house. Hair between your dog’s toes collects mud and snow clumps. So trimming between those toes with a small blunt scissors or an electric pet clipper will save you some mess later.

If you have a long-haired dog whose romps in the snowy outdoors leave him with globs of wet snow sticking to his leg hair, use warm water to quickly “defrost” him. If you can get him to jump into your bathtub, just run some warm water over his legs, and the snow will disappear quickly, and you can towel him dry before he runs through the house. If getting the dog into the tub is a problem, wipe him with towel that been dipped in hot water. Keep half of that towel dry, and use that to finish the job.

If pets are walked outdoors on winter streets or roads that have been salted, be sure to wash and dry their feet thoroughly. Instead of using a typical “salt” snow melting product on your sidewalk, you can buy products formulated NOT to hurt pets’ feet. Or try using kitty litter on your driveway for traction if you don’t want to expose your pet to chemicals.

Year-round coat care of your pet depends largely on the type of hair involved. Short-hair dogs and cats can be groomed weekly with a soft rubber brush or a hand mitt. Long-hair pets require daily grooming to avoid mats and tangles. Use a long-tooth metal comb and a stiff wire brush to brush the coat “backwards” to make it fluffy. Once you’ve used a good-quality comb or brush purchased from a pet-supply business, you’ll probably never bother with a cheaper tool from the supermarket or general discount store.

Double-coated dogs (those with a stiff outer coat and a softer undercoat) can be the worst shedders and most untidy looking. A new grooming tool called a “Coat King” is a favorite for quickly and easily removing the “dead” undercoat. If you have a fluffy terrier-type dog or a spaniel or retriever, the Coat King stripper can help you avoid more expensive professional grooming that will be needed if the coat gets too unruly.

Frequent bathing of most cats and dogs isn’t recommended since it can dry out their skin too much. Cats are often “self-cleaners” who use their tongues to keep themselves clean. Many dogs have coats thick enough to keep dirt off the skin, so brushing out the coat is all that’s needed.

If your pet needs a quick cleaning, try a “dry shampoo” product between bathings. If your pet gets gum, tar, or other sticky substances into his coat, try rubbing it out with mineral oil. For paint in the coat, wash with warm water and soap. Do NOT use paint remover, kerosene, or gasoline. If all else fails, cut the substance out with scissors (the hair will grow back).

A little time and money invested in pet care pays off with a healthier, happier pet and a cleaner house. And for you, don’t underestimate the stress-reducing therapy of hands-on sessions with your pet.

Check your local pet supply stores, such as Pet Smart, for some of the items mentioned here.

Care-A-Lot Pet Warehouse www.carealotpets.com and www.groomersmall.com (the best source for the “Coat King” tool mentioned above).

Don is delightfully needy. Unlike many males, he enjoys ... no, enjoys isn't the right word, he craves cuddling and closeness almost like it's an addiction. In bed at night he stretches out so that the maximum amount of his body is next to mine. I certainly appreciate affection but sometimes would prefer to be merely popular and not the rage. Don also has this slightly kinky habit of diving under the covers and nibbling on my toes. He became annoyingly needy the night he nibbled on my husband David's nose at 3:00 am. Don Juan, the excessively loving brown tiger cat was banished from the bedroom that was promptly declared a "No Cat Room."!

Being a Save-A-Pet caregiver has meant living with other passionate brunettes and blondes and redheads ... also blacks, whites, grays, calicos and torties. Each one is incorporated into the household as a member of the family. Each one finds its own niche -- a favorite place to nap and a favorite time to get a share of their foster mom's and dad's affection.

Ranger is my shadow. He heels like a dog following me everywhere rubbing against my leg. From him I learned the "Save-A-Pet Shuffle" so I wouldn't step on him.

Vera is my water girl. As soon as she hears water running she is there on the counter or poised carefully on the divider of the double sink caressing my arms and making it exceedingly difficult to do dishes.

Then there's little Mary Agnes, probably separated from her mother at too young an age. As soon as I sit down Mary Agnes in up on my shoulder kneading furiously and nuzzling my neck. Underweight Mary Agnes is given a small amount of canned food each morning in a carrier so that the other cats won't steal her food. The only hiccup is that when I'm taking another kitty to the vet, I have to extract Mary Agnes from the carrier where she is expecting a treat.

The real action begins when David and I sit down to read the paper or watch the news. Mr. Wilson sits on David's paper. Nikki cuddles in the crook of my left arm (always the left). The left arm of the recliner belongs to Mother Cat, the right to Phantom. Twig and Alice prefer legs. Murray, NiteNite and Petey are chest sitters. Maude, Millie and Ellie prefer laps. Poppie sits at my right and taps my arm with his paw for attention. When a Save-A-Pet kitty joins the ranks of living room lovers, we know that cat is ready for adoption. Sure enough, any especially sweet kitties that I call "therapy cats" usually find homes soon. Another cat needing TLC soon fills the empty spot on lap or chair.

If you would like a passionate brunette (or blonde or redhead) in your life, give Save-A-Pet a call!

Halloween: Furry Style

Many pet owners like to include their dog or cat in their Halloween celebrations, and pets enjoy being part of the family festivities. Sadly, however, many owners do their four-legged friends a great disservice by dressing them in uncomfortable costumes or giving them rich, non-nutritional treats. Here are some tips for pet owners to make the night a safe and happy occasion for everyone involved – doggy & kitty included.

-- Don’t give your pet candy – keep it out of reach. Chocolate can be especially toxic to pets.

-- Instead of candy, have some nutritional treats, made for pets, on hand to give them.

-- Don’t let your pet get into empty candy wrappers. If ingested, they can upset tummies, or even cause cuts.

-- If you have an outdoor pet, consider bringing him in for the night – some trick or treaters can take mischief too far and, unfortunately, animals make easy targets.

-- Do you have a nervous or aggressive dog? If so, keep her away from the trick or treaters at the door to ensure she doesn’t slip out or get scared by the unusual visitors.

-- If you take your pet trick-or-treating, make sure she’s on a leash. Even the tamest, best-trained pets can get excited during the Halloween commotion.

Simple Costume Ideas

If the idea of dressing up your pet is simply too irresistible, choose one that doesn’t restrict movement or hamper vision. Simple ones are best – here’s a few suggestions:

1. Super Pet: Make your pet a hero by donning a short, lightweight cape attached to his collar.

2. Furry Angel: Use pipe cleaners to fashion a small halo – then attach to her collar with two

more pipe cleaners.

3. Cat-bat or Puppy-vampire: Cut bat wings from felt and sew the ends onto a collar.

“What’s in a name? A rose by any other name would smell as sweet.” - -- William Shakespeare

I am a very ordinary person with the unmitigated gall to question the immortal bard. What’s in a name? Names are important. Parents give months of thought about what to name their forthcoming child. Some parents name as a reflection of themselves. For example, environmentalists may name children River and Leaf. I was not going to encumber a son with Junior until my husband David was in Vietnam when our first child was born. Suddenly it was very important to me to name this child David William Kirkpatrick, Jr. After all, David Sr. might not return and this child was piece of him and our mutual love. I teased our son that if he had been a girl, the feminine of David William was Davida Wilhelmina. (My need was not that great.)

Some people name children with a vision for that child’s future in mind. Children are named for people that are admired. Martin Luther King is now better known than the man he was named after. Biblical names reflect religious heritage. Sarah speaks of steadfast faith and traditional values. Cultural names reflect success. How many girls have been named after Brittany Spears?

Some people name for the essence of the child. I know folks who have abandoned selected names when the long awaited baby arrived because when they saw the child, “It just didn’t fit.”

Knowing someone’s name is evidence of a relationship. Being invited to use a first name is an invitation to intimacy. People warn, “Don’t give that stray a name or it’s yours!” We can no longer remain impersonal when we know the name.

Naming pets deserves thoughtful consideration as well. Pets are often named for appearance. Black cats become Midnight and Shadow. Longhaired cats become Fluffy or Lady Godiva. A black and white cat was named Moo Moo. Pets are also named for physical characteristics. Six-toed cats become Mittens, the largest kitten becomes Bruiser and the littlest is called Runt. Bette Davis was named for her big, beautiful eyes.

Care needs to be taken that a name will “grow” with the animal. An awkward kitten named Spaz grew up to be lithe with fluid movements. A gorgeous black and white tuxedo cat was surrendered with the name Blinky. We called him Benson.

Care also needs to be taken that a name does not contain negative meanings which might affect our attitude. We wouldn’t name a child Stupid or Obnoxious. Bruiser was a gentle, loving male. We called him Brady Spats O’Shay. Just keep in mind that with a longer name such as Danny Boy Boots Malone or Leigh’s Cliftonpoint Sassafras, you will want to use a shorter version as a call name.

Some animals are named for who they are. Mother Cat will always be Mother Cat. She is the Alpha Cat in my house, a regal matriarch. Sixteen years old, she eats first. Upstart kittens quickly learn to wait after a gentle swipe from Mother Cat. Save-A-Pet calls calm, gentle, soothing cats “therapy cats”. Some of our therapy cats were Harmony, Serenity, Cashmere.

We have had fun with groups of two (Rhett & Scarlett, Adam & Eve) and three (Tom, Dick & Harry; Faith, Hope & Charity; Winken, Blinken & Nod). However, after Winken and Blinken were adopted, we had to explain why the remaining kitten was named Nod.

Many of our strays are named to help us remember their story. Timber and Twig were found on Plank Road. The “flower shop kittens” are Violet, Daisy and Lily and their mom is Posie. Leda was named for the human consort to Zeus as a swan. Leda is white. Swans are white and she was found on Leete Road. (I know that’s a stretch!)

Whatever you name your beloved pet, give them more than food, water and shelter. Give them your time and your love. They will reward you with so much in return that your heart will overflow. Less expensive than a psychiatrist, the ultimate relaxation response, pets can lower our blood pressure and calm frazzled nerves. A connection with the divine, animals help us to regain a childlike uncomplicated innocence and a sense of pure joy.